I decided to make a pair of late 16th century trunkhose. Partly to see how they work, and partly to add some variation to my wardrobe. I have made several pairs of breeches but thought I'd try something a bit different.
I bought the Men's Elizabethan Trunkhose pattern from the Tudor Tailor.
http://www.tudortailor.com/shop/?item-details=112984398&item-name=Pattern-for-Men--39-s-Elizabethan-Peascod-Doublet-and-Trunkhose---Small-Sizes
It's based on very thorough research from Janet Arnold and a collection of extant sources. The pattern is nicely printed and is of a high quality. The instructions for trunkhose construction are a single double sided A4 sheet and may as well be in hieroglyphics for their usability. I found their instructions cryptic and terse with only a handful of small grainy photos to help. My own failings may be at fault but as I felt the same way over the instructions for one of their doublet patterns I suspect that blame can be shared.
Enter Margo Anderson. Margo has an extensive background in theatrical costuming. She has published a range of garments including a set of trunkhose.
http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/ElizGntlmnWrdb.html
Margo is aiming for the historical recreation market as well as a more generic ren faire audience.
An example would be that because of her theatrical background Margo sometimes forgets about linings for clothes as stage costumes don't need them.
The Margo Anderson patterns come with a seventy page document on historical sewing techniques quite apart from the actual patterns. I am sure that the patterns aren't as accurate as anything that references Janet Arnold, but they are similar. The enormous advantage over the Tudor Tailor are the thirty pages, with very extensive diagrams, on how to construct the garment.
So which way to go? Since I had bought both patterns I made up the foundation garments for both to see which fitted better. The Tudor Tailor won easily. It was a much better fit straight off the pattern. So I will compromise. Since the patterns are similar I will use the Tudor Tailor pattern and construct it using the Margo Anderson documentation. I am not sure how well it will work but if I stay with the Tudor Tailor instructions I will have nothing sewn at all.
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